Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
